The sea was shining at the end of the street, and we hurried to it. However, having come closely, we saw that the sea disappeared. Instead of it, we saw the sand, cut by algae, dozens of boats aground and oyster farms. That’s what happens when you would like to see the sea in France, and arrive at the English Channel coast at an ebb-time.
It takes two hours by high-speed train from Paris to the North of France – and you are in Bretagne. This region is famous for the strongest ebbs and flows in Europe. There is plenty of towns spread over the coast. Each of them deserves attention. We chose the city-fortress of Sent-Malo, wherefrom filibusters and the first French seafarers took a path.
The city will impress you because it transfers you to the Middle age. Five-storeyed stone houses, Gothic cathedral of the XII century and narrow streets, from which it is easy to go up the main city wall. You can walk leisurely far and wide for a half hour, looking in battlements. It feels like seafarers and filibusters have just left, and now you are standing to look after the fortress and guns alone.
You might not guess that city was significantly damaged during the bombing raids in 1944. Out of the 883 buildings of the XV-XVI centuries construction only 180 survived, damaged heavily. But the old centre was rebuilt according to old drawings and photographs as if time had not touched it.
The main character in Sent-Malo is the sea, of course. Twice a day it goes out, retreating to a depth of 13 meters, and then returns. At first hours of ebb, the sea moves very quickly, waves overwhelm all that they meet on the way, and hit the fortress’s walls.
Than the sea calms, goes out and bares a huge sandy beach, natural roads to three islands – a big fortress National, a small Fort du Petit Be and the island Grand Be, where a poet and writer Chateaubriand was buried. After six hours (each phases lasts this time) everything repeats. The total time of two low and two high tides cycle is approximately 25 hours. That is why the beginning of ebbs and flows shifts for 15-30 minutes from day to day.
There is a special calendar with the timetable of ebbs and flows, given to each tourist. But it is hard to believe how this huge sandy beach, these paths leading to the islands can completely disappear under the water. Here it is, the hot sand, and also here I am, walking on the seabed among seashells, seaweed. And then you look around and your path to the shore is almost flooded. You start running, and other people are rushing behind you knee-deep in water. There is a “SOS-button” on each island for those who were suddenly insulated. You mustn’t try to come back yourself. It’s necessary to wait while the water is going away.
There is a small town Cancal approximately 20 kilometers from Sent-Malo. When the sea leaves this place, you are able to see oyster farms. Cancal is a oyster capital of France. Here oysters are grown for the best restaurants. Work is in full swing here during an ebb. Cars run on the seabed, workers turn over nets with seashells, transport something. They have only some hours till water covers everything. We could go to the nets easily and look how oysters are grown. Also there are six tents on the shore, where you can buy absolutely fresh oysters at five euros for a dozen. Lemon to sprinkle the oyster before eating is provided. It’s better to prepare wine and glasses in advance. Sit down on the shore of the sea and enjoy the best lunch!
I was so impressed by the view that I came back to this place on the next day for breakfast. But it was the time of a flows and the sea covered everything! So, if you are going to the north of France, it’s necessary to stay for several days for exploring the coast, so as not to miss the most interesting things!
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